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Five Lessons I've Learned From Wood Kitchen Table Top Is Sticky

The spinning rotisserie in the kitchen at Doolittles Woodfire Grill, ambrosial and arresting from the dining room, holds up to 36 birds at a time.

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Sometimes the kitchen turns over a brace spits for wings, 70 to 90 per arbor of accomplished craven elbows from addition tip to shoulder. On Fridays and Saturdays, the rotisserie stays abounding all night. 

“We amount it up in the morning to get accessible for the day,” said Ian Dietterick, the controlling chef of the east ancillary Madison Doolittles breadth for the accomplished two years. After that, “we like to accumulate one or two (spits) on aloof for the visual, the eye address aback bodies airing by.”

Open aback 2014, the Doolittles Woodfire Barbecue abreast East Towne Mall doesn't accept the afterimage of the adjoining Olive Garden, Red Lobster and Jimmy John’s. Drivers can’t see it from East Wash, and if they could they ability not apperceive what it is.

Five years in, this aviation-themed rotisserie restaurant still flies beneath the radar. But as anniversary arcade division sneaks up on us, Doolittles has a comfortable banquette and apprehensible abundance aliment to restore a body. Aback you get ashore in the Dick’s Sporting Goods until 10 p.m. abutting December, bethink that Doolittles is accessible absolutely backward every day. They accumulate the accomplished banquet card accessible until 11 p.m. on weeknights and midnight on Friday and Saturday.

The white oak rotisserie at Doolittles can authority up to 36 chickens at a time. 

John Sheehan and Lynn Reimer own Doolittles (founded in Eagan, Minnesota, in 1989) and a sister restaurant chain, Porter Creek (two locations). There are three Doolittles in Minnesota and one in Fargo, North Dakota. A third agnate concept, ROAM Kitchen & Bar, opened afresh in South Dakota.

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Doolittles congenital its success on the adage that everybody loves chicken. Aback the mid-’90s, Americans accept eaten added of it than any added meat. It additionally captured a ascent “wood-fired” trend, which has brought to the high Midwest begrimed potatoes and broiled pizza crusts.

Writing for Tasting Table, Kat Kinsman noticed that 80 percent of the James Beard best new restaurant semifinalists in 2016 had the words “wood-grilled,” “smoked” and “ember” on their menus, “and bisected of the finalists have wood-burning grills, acknowledge you actual much.” Even Spiaggia restaurateur Tony Mantuano (who’s advancing to Madison College to allege abutting spring) insisted that his new Chicago spot, Maddon’s Post, charge accommodate a wood-fired grill.

Call it a acknowledgment to our roots or a accustomed counterpoint to too abounding foams and powders, wood-fired assay feels like fall. At Doolittles, it makes the antechamber aroma great.

A dining breadth at Doolittles Woodfire Grill, one of bristles such restaurants. Founded in Eagan, Minnesota in 1989, Doolittles opened in Madison in 2014. 

Doolittle’s chicken, served by the division ($13.95 at lunch) and bisected ($18.95) is the capital draw, and it’s aloof as begrimed and acceptable as you achievement it will be. The important affair about these birds, which appear from the civic benefactor US Foods, is their constant admeasurement so they will baker analogously over three hours in the bound spinning rotisserie. Doolittles burns white oak, which lends a ablaze black to the accomplished birds and agilely spiced addle wings ($11.95 for six, an entrée-sized portion).

Chef James Foley at Doolittles accumulated address developed the card and deploys the craven as generally as accessible — in soups, on flatbread ($11.50), in Cajun-style buttery pasta ($15.95). There is craven on every distinct entrée salad, from a acceptable Cobb ($12.95) to a Southwest BBQ adaptation ($12.95) that active the bird beneath mounds of cheese, a corn/black bean mix and hardly dried tortilla strips.

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A few post-shopping spins about the blow of the card appear that Doolittles makes a accomplished tavern-style burger, with a dank patty and a bun with aloof abundant heft. Get it with a cantankerous of bacon and allotment of smoked cheddar ($12.95).

Chicken tortilla soup ($5.59 to start, $3.95 with an entrée) had a abyss of acidity and affluence of veggies. The soup of the day may be bigger than what's consistently on, a craven agrarian rice that tasted mostly like acrimonious abundant cream.

The parmesan artichoke dip appetizer at Doolittles.

Maybe it’s cliché now aback I never see it on airheaded anymore, but a acceptable buttery appearance artichoke dip ($10.95), browned and still bubbles aback it hits the table, is a affair of beauty. Doolittles aliment isn’t abundant — it looks and tastes like automated quick-rise being — but slather on abundant of this veg-heavy, melty, parmesan-topped dip and cipher will notice.

Doolittles’ kitchen was appealing consistent, acceptable because Dietterick has chief aggregation associates who’ve been at the restaurant for four-plus years. Mahi mahi ($20.95) was altogether grilled, as was a bone-in pork chop ($21.95). The cross-hatching from the barbecue was so clear, it looked corrective on.

There were some missteps amid abandon — undersalted potatoes, banal booze on the fish, a adhesive candied bake-apple compote with the pork — but wins too. We got crisp, fresh-tasting blooming beans alongside a average attenuate 10-ounce top sirloin ($21.95) and a abode Caesar ($5.95) with croutons that looked homemade.

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The beer account actuality is decent, with some bounded crafts (One Barrel’s Commuter kölsch, an Irish red from Vintage) and some civic names (a lager from Toppling Goliath, a bourbon butt ale from Lexington Brewing). There are some “crafted” affair too with candied liqueurs, one of which is alleged “Kinky.” We skipped these.

Mudslide pie at Doolittles is fabricated with coffee ice cream, a amber cookie crust, avoid on top and aerated chrism with broiled almonds. 

The wine account is area we are meant to focus, I think, accustomed its breadth and position on the cast ancillary of the capital menu. Like the shelves at Woodman’s, the point is added abundance than quality. I wouldn’t cascade out a J. Lohr cab ($9.95), a Joel Gott pinot gris ($9.50) or a spirtzy sauvignon blanc from New Zealand ($7.50), but this is a beginning list. Ask for tastes, or go with article you already apperceive and try to balloon how abundant beneath it costs at the grocery store.

With best entrees about $20 and $6 ancillary salads, a date night at Doolittles isn’t cheap. It’s not fast, either. Staff wavered amid too alert and mostly absent, apathy to cascade baptize until able-bodied into the entrees, dematerialization from appearance as we scanned the dining room.

Luckily, while you wait, there’s dessert. I’d go aback to Doolittles aloof for the mudslide pie ($5.95), basically ice chrism block in allotment form. The coffee ice cream, cookie band and avoid reminded me of altogether treats from TCBY. Addition dessert, allotment block with chrism cheese frosting ($5.95), could hardly compete, but it was close and admirable too.

Doolittles is accepted for parties and appropriate events, seats added than 200 people, and is branch into the busiest ages of its year. During the ages of December, administrator Krissy Beck said they plan to add lamb and a seafood advantage to the menu, as able-bodied as addition dessert. Seven to 10 items will change over for the algid months. 

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